What is the minimum temperature I can lay product at?
Refer to TDS, as it varies across products. Typically 5°C for solvent-based & 10°C for water-based and solvent-free products.
HOW DRY DOES THE SURFACE NEED TO BE BEFORE APPLYING PAINT PRODUCTS?
Check products TDS. Normal value is a maximum of 7% moisture content in the surface. This can be measured with a Meon General Purpose Moisture Meter.
Do I need a primer?
Refer to TDS as it varies across products. Typically 5°C for solvent based and MMA's, which rises to 10°C for water based and solvent free products.
Why is my paint not drying?
Main reasons are low air temperatures, high humidity levels in the atmosphere [damp weather] and/or lack of airflow/air changes. If it is possible to increase temperature and/or airflow, it may help.
I am laying onto concrete, is it imperative to let it cure first?
Yes, for 3 reasons; firstly the curing process tends to cause laitance [a dusty coating which is a natural part of the curing process] and this will prevent adhesion; secondly the moisture content is very high when first laid and it will prevent adhesion; and finally the coating applied to concrete may well prevent further evaporation of water trapping this within the concrete causing problems later.
Can I use water-based in a chill chamber, around 1-3°C?
Typically the answer is yes, as the chilling process tends to extract moisture from the air and creates a relatively dry atmosphere. The curing time will be extended, we recommend a test patch first to check.
Can I apply your products onto new asphalt or tamac?
We always recommend allowing sufficient time for the surface to stabilise and for oxidisation to take place. It is difficult to put a timescale on this, as it is weather dependent and varies between a few days in summer to several weeks or more in winter. Water based products can be applied a lot sooner than products high in solvents. There are ways of priming if coatings have to be applied immediately. You can see a list of our primers HERE
Do I need to carry out any mechanical prep to a power-floated concrete floor before applying a coating or lines?
We certainly advise it as it will provide a better finish with excellent adhesion & longer life. If it is not possible, there are primers which we recommend as the next best option.
Why are my painted lines flaking off from the surface?
If paint is flaking, it has not adhered properly to the surface. There are several possible reasons for this: 1] dirt or soiling present on the surface; paint may stick to the dirt, but the dirt will come off the surface and take paint with it. Check the underside of the paint flake – is it dirty? if so, that is likely the cause; 2] moisture or dampness on the surface – this needs addressing in 2 parts as follows, with either of them, if the underside of the paint flakes are clean and the product flakes off easily if you drag a coin across then it is very likely a damp issue; 2a] dampness in the substrate – especially in concrete there is often damp just below the surface and this prevents adhesion as the paint does not cure properly; or 2b] condensation collecting on the surface during painting – if the air is moist [high relative humidity] and/or the surface is cold, it is common to have a fine film of condensation on the surface, not immediately visible but sufficient to prevent the paint sticking; 3] air and/or surface temperatures too high, typically 35°C or more; this causes paint to dry too quickly and interferes with the cure process, so it doesn’t stick. Whilst air temperature this high are uncommon in the UK, surface temperatures can easily be in excess of this in warmer weather.
Your Tech Data Sheet gives drying times at 15°C - if the temperature is lower than this, how will it affect the drying time?
These times will approximately double for every 5°C drop in slab temperature.
Why is my paint taking longer to dry than it says in your Tech Data Sheet [TDS]?
The drying & curing times we quote for our products are mostly based on an air & slab temperature of 15°C, with reasonable airflow. If temperatures of either are lower, or airflow is limited, drying times will be affected. These times will approximately double for every 5°C drop in air or slab temperature.
Why is the air temperature in my warehouse or workshop important?
The drying & curing times we quote for our products are mostly based on an air temperature of 15°C. These times will approximately double for every 5°C drop in air temperature, cooler air can absorb less solvent, therefore lower temperatures will affect drying times.
Why are my lines varying in width as I spray?
a. The most common reason is that the spray machine has 2 guns and the short gun hose is being used, rather than the long one. Only use the short gun hose as a 2nd gun!
b. Often running the engine slightly faster can remove some variation in line width.
Do I need to prime the surface before laying UltraLine?
We always recommend priming concrete before application of MMA products, for specific technical reasons. Refer to our Primers section on our website for more detailed information.
Can I leave my tips in thinners for the winter?
Ordinary thinners tend to have a water content which can led to rusting; better to clean them thoroughly and store dry, or store in a high grade thinner [such as X290 SF Thinners] in a sealed container such as a screw top jar
Why is my paint machine leaking a lot of paint around the tip/tip guard?
a. Check the tipseal – it may be missing or incorrectly positioned.
b. Dry paint on end of gun may prevent seal being madec. Check tip guard is hand tight.
How do I dispose of arisings when I am using waterbased paint?
Ultimately it is down to your specific Waste Management policy or practices. Our recommendation is to store the arisings in a bunded area, protected from rainfall, in lidded containers; punch/drill airholes in the lids, this will allow the water content to evaporate. Once the water has all evaporated the solids content will dry and we consider this to be inert & non-hazardous waste; dispose of in the same way as you would dispose of anything else in this category.
What does transport medium font look like?
Visit the Roads website here & scroll down to ‘’Pavement’’ – this shows you what it looks like – bear in mind the taller characters are ‘’stretched’’ [typically 900mm upwards].
Can I rent a paint machine, or do I have to buy one?
We have rental paint machines available, however we do insist that we provide training if you have not had any previous experience, to protect both of us and make sure you get the best out of the machine!
Why do I need to know the temperature of the floor slab in my warehouse or workshop?
The drying & curing times we quote for our products are mostly based on a slab temperature of 15°C. These times will approximately double for every 5°C drop in slab temperature, therefore it has an important influence in deciding which products can be used.
ARE YOUR PRODUCTS SLIP-RESISTANT?
Yes, we do have products and additives which offer good slip resistance when applied correctly to suitable substrates. Typically SRV45 or more is considered suitable for medium risk areas such as walkways, rising to SRV65 or more for high risk areas such as High Friction Surfacing.
I HAVE USED TEMPO TP TO MARK OUT A REPAIR ON THE FOOTWAY, AND NOW NEED TO REMOVE THESE. HOW IS THIS ACHIEVED?
This will depends on the surface where it has been applied. Remove with a stiff brush and high jet pressure washer.
HOW LONG DOES TEMPO TP LAST?
As a temporary spray it is designed to last between 2-8 weeks.
How do I put markings on resin bound?
Preformed thermoplastic marking are fine to use, although ensure you don't burn the surface of the resin when applying. Spray applied water based paints or low solvent based paints such as ViaLine F210 can also be applied. Paints with a higher solvent level could cause damage to the surface as the solvent may soften the resin.
What are the advantages of using a sealer?
Benefits of using a sealer on a painted line (or area) is threefold. Firstly it improves the gloss level such that the line is brighter. Secondly the line is easier to keep clean. Thirdly it will extend the life of the line.
What paint do we suggest using on rubber crumb surfacing or synthetic turf?
Both of these surfaces require special vulcanised paints which Meon do not currently supply. The closet we can get is our RouteLine which is only available in a limited range of colours.
Do you have a paint I can use in a food prep area?
We recommend the use of water based paints, rather than solvent based, in food prep and storage areas, as this removes the risk of solvent taint to the foods. Be careful, as some water based paints have an ammonia content. Whilst this is a widely used ingredient in water based paints, it can set off ammonia detector alarms if they are fitted to your cooling system. Use an ammonia-free water based paint.
How can I paint a floor which has oil on it?
Oil stains are one of the most problematic challenges you will come across, as once it has seeped into an unsealed concrete surface it is virtually impossible to remove. We never recommend overcoating an oil-stained surface as the adhesion will be compromised. Some form of mechanical preparation is normally necessary to remove the oil residue prior to coating, however there are specialist primers that can help, if the floor has to be coated.
Do I need to wear any PPE when using the ViaLine system?
We always recommend using ''best practice PPE'' with any paint product, by this we mean suitable hand and eye protection. ViaLine is a low-solvent product, however there is a smell with it, as with virtually any paint product. If your Risk Assessment recommends the use of a face mask, or if the user suffers from any respiratory ailment such as asthma then it should be mandatory equipment.
Is it right that water based paint will not last as long as solvent based?
This is not correct. The key thing is the quality of resin, as this is what is left as a paint film after the paint has dried. Water based paint is widely used and delivers good results. In the UK we have a damper climate - this is a challenge for water based as it often means that the water based paint does not dry properly when applied in slightly cooler or damper environments such as night time, leading to poor adhesion. This has given a poor reputation to water based road paints in the UK, but is not a true reflection on the product. Applied correctly, it can often outlast equivalent solvent based paints.
I want to put thermoplastic onto concrete, what primer should I use?
Whilst we never recommend applying thermoplastic onto concrete, if you have to then use either UniPrime X450 [also known as FP Primer] which is applied using roller, brush or airless spray; or ProTack aerosol.
What do I add to two-pack epoxy RoadLine X420 or TrafficLine to achieve better slip resistance? Molochite or crushed glass?
Crushed glass is exactly what it says, so will continue crushing in use. If a slip resistance is required, this will decrease during use. Molochite is harder and will give a more sustained slip resitance but must be mixed into the paint, not scattered over. Be careful not to add too much molochite as it will clump up
I have some HGV loading bays to mark out in a concrete distribution centre yard. Can I do it myself or do I have to get a contractor?
Yes, with a bit of masking and practice you could use UltraLine applied with a hand mould. Prime first and prep surface/remove any old markings with a grinder (which Meon can hire) as required.
What's the best line marking paint for an internal power floated floor with ambient temperature and forklift traffic? There is not enough downtime available for a slow curing 2 pack paint.
Ensure thorough preparation of the floor and apply UniPrime X250 followed by ViaLine F210 with ClearSeal X260 to give the best resistance to forklift traffic. All these products are rapid curing single packs.
What's the best line marking paint for an internal power floated concrete floor where the temperature is between 0°C and 5°C for fresh food storage distribution?
If the location is not odour sensitive i.e. packaged food - prep floor and apply UniPrime X250 followed by ViaLine F210 and ClearSeal X260 for additional gloss values and longevity of lines. If it is an odour sensitive area - prep floor and apply SureStripe W218 with correct primer.
What is the VOC level for Trafficline?
415g per litre as found on our Declaration of Performance for TrafficLine.
Please see the DOP.
Why so many different cutters for the GrindLazers?
Not all machines have every option available. Wire Brush - preparation and debris removal Carbide Flail - paint and MMA Miller - thermoplastic Steel Beam - mainly internal preparation and line removal Pick - paint.thermo/MMA - more durable linemarking products and for groove inlay PCD Flat - premium cutter. As pick, with a more quality finish
How do I spray MultiGrip?
2 points to remember: First - use either 531 or 631 tip, and secondly remove the inline filter. Ensure your machine has a pump capacity with a minium of 3.9 litres per minute. Ensure you replace the inline filter when you have finished, after the machine is completely cleaned out.
What is the RAL colour of your RouteLine?
RouteLine is made to colour co-ordinates rather than RAL number. The closest equivalent is RAL 1023.
How do I spray a line 900mm wide?
Depends on a few factors such as what equipment you have available, how much time you have to complete, can it be masked, what product are you spraying, selection of spray tips available and the scale of the project. Several of our LineLazers could spray this in one pass - please contact Meon for further advice with the above information and we will be pleased to help.
What do "P" and "S" values refer to on some date sheets?
These values are European values which are being adopted gradually in the UK. "P" values refer to Durability, whilst "S" is the Slip Resistance. All these explained on our Performance Data sheet.
What paint product can I apply by brush or roller?
TrafficLine and MultiGrip are the recommended products to use. They are both single packs so you can open and use the tins multiple times, easy to apply by brush or roller and are available in smaller tins - 7kg and 5kg respectively. For maximum durability, use RoadLine Q285, again available in small sizes and brush applied.
How can I remove laitence from new concrete?
Mechanically you can remove using captive shot blasting or milling with a steel beam miller. Concrete primers will also help with overcoming the effects of applying coatings onto laitance covered concrete.
What tip should I use?
Suggested tips are often mentioned on the product Technical Data Sheet (TDS), or on the Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) for the application of that product.
My spray tip keeps blocking every few metres and paint squirts out sideways rather than on the line?
The spray tip is getting blocked and there are two main reasons for this happening: 1. The paint itself may need more stirring or it may have become contaminated by being used without a lid covering it when spraying which can allow dirt and particles to blow into the paint. Paint will also start to skin over and this skin can cause a blockage of the spray tip. If it needs stirring or thinning slightly then do this thoroughly. If it is felt to be contaminated than either discard or filter the paint. 2. The second reason is that the the blockages are coming from a residue within the hoses possibly by lack of cleaning effectively or where machine has been left dormant for a while and the hoses have dried out. Either way the answer is to thoroughly clean the machine through before reloading with paint. We strongly recommend using the deep flush method and continue until the inline filter is not catching any more particles during the cleaning process.
I am trying to spray your water based paint and it is not working. What am I doing wrong?
The root cause is the change in viscosity, caused in turn by changes in temperature. If you look at the rate of change in viscosity v's temperature increase, you will find that the change rate is much faster or higher with water than it is with solvents. Therefore a change of say 5°C will cause a bigger change in viscosity in a water based acrylic than it will with a solvent based acrylic. The acrylic is essentially a solid and therefore it is only the liquid part of the paint that will be affected by viscosity, whether it is water or solvent based. There are several ways that you can combat this challenge with water-based. The first is to ensure that the paint is at the same temperature as the environment in which you are spraying and the simplest way to do that is to leave the tin of paint in the environment for 1 to 2 hours before you start setting it up in the machine. The second way is to maintain viscosity at an optimum spraying level by thinning the paint in cooler temperatures. The final part of the equation is intelligent use of spray tips and pressure settings but ultimately if the viscosity is too thick then spraying is always going to be a challenge. There are very simple tests for viscosity using viscosity cups, whereby you measure the amount of time that paint takes to empty out of the cup. If it takes too long and it means the paint is too thick and you simply keep thinning it until it has reached the optimum amount of time. It is, however, important to understand that you can only really do this when the bulk paint has reached a stable temperature in the environment in which you are spraying, otherwise as soon as you take it into another temperature environment the viscosity will gradually change and skew the set-up again as you start spraying. This is the main reason why customers say it started off spraying fine and then stopped, as it is due to the gradual adaptation of temperature within the paint causing the viscosity to change.
What machine can I spray MultiGrip with?
You need to use a spray tip with a minimum 31 thou hole size, so as this tip has a flow rate of 3.9 litres per minute you will need a spray machine that supports that.
I am using one of your paints and the darker colours seem to be thicker than the lighter ones - why is that?
This can happen especially at lower temperatures, as although the base resin is the same, the darker pigments can cause the paint to thicken at lower temperatures. If the paint is too thick after you have stirred it, then you can thin it down a little bit using the correct SF Thinner for the paint you are using. Check on the relevant Tech Data Sheet to identify the correct SF Thinner and how much you can use.
We painted blue paint a few days ago, and it was quite thick to spray - not sure if it should be like that? Also when we used the machine, it sometimes lost pressure during spraying. Any idea what's the reason?
If the paint is too thick after you have stirred it well, you can thin it down a little bit using the correct SF Thinners. If the LineLazer is losing pressure it is probably because the paint is too thick and it is not flowing through the filter. Definitely try thinning the paint down, not too much. Ideally 10% maximum - this is about 1.5 litres of thinner, per full 20kg tin of paint. Mix it into the paint well, and ensure the LineLazer is full of thinned paint before attempting to continue spraying.
Can I use UniPrime X450 primer for MMA?
No, as it is not a high-build primer and will not seal the porosity of the surface sufficiently. Check relevant Tech Data Sheet for the correct primer.
I see a ''Wet Film Thickness Gauge'' in your catalogue. What is it for and should I be using it?
For measuring the thickness of the paint when wet - ie. immediately after application. Most products will have a recommended WFT on the Tech Data Sheet. Paint applied too thin will wear away prematurely, whereas paint applied too thick will often not cure. Neither will give you the optimum life expectancy from your application.
Can I use UniPrime X250 for MMA?
Yes certainly, as it is designed for use with acrylics and acrylates, and provides sufficient film build to seal the porosity of the concrete. This allows full cure of the MMA and therefore means it will gain full adhesion.
I need to prime a concrete surface before applying MMA. Does the primer have to be MMA as well?
No, you can use an MMA primer, but you don't have to. The benefit of doing so is the rapid cure of the primer, so for large areas it means you can move on quickly. What IS important is for whatever primer you use, it must be one specifically designed for MMA, must be applied at correct thickness and must be allowed to fully cure before coating with MMA.
Do I need a primer if I'm putting MMA onto concrete?
Yes, certainly! There are considerable differences of opinion on this subject, plus many claims of ''oh I never bother priming''. The detail of the reason is complex. It is down to the porosity of concrete affecting and interfering with the curing process of the MMA. Thin coat MMA's are especially vulnerable to this. We are aware that many contractors lay thick-coat extruded MMA's without primer and the reason that this is relatively successful is twofold. Firstly these are usually used on rougher concretes which provide a greater mechanical key - the MMA moulds around the roughness of the surface and ''grabs it tight''. The second aspect is that the thicker coating contains the MMA reaction/cure process better - it ''bounces around'' inside the paint film rather than getting lost into the porosity of the concrete. All that said, pull-off tests consistently show far superior results when the surface is primed, even for the thick coat MMA's.